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Gravel paths and terracotta run between olive, cypress, lavender, and rosemary, planted the way they grow on a dry hillside — spaced apart, low to the ground, and unhurried. Dwarf lemon trees stand in pots along the walks, wintered indoors and carried back out by hand each year, and the fruit goes to the frozen lemonade stand a short walk away. Almost everything here has silver or grey-green foliage, and the leaves release their oils in the heat, so the scent follows you the whole way in and back out again.